Thursday, April 23, 2015

A trip to Yakushima Island (Southern Japan)

Yakushima Island is located South of Kagashima in the South of the mainland of Japan. It is about 504 square KM with a population of around 13000 residing almost entirely around the coast. The island is mountainous and rises to 1936 metres at its highest point. A large part of the island is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its outstanding natural beauty, enormous trees and varied flora and fauna. As my wife loves the bush and I love the sea Yakushima was the perfect destination for our family adventure holiday.

It's about 140 KM all the way round and would be a fantastic paddle
We timed our arrival with that of a low pressure system and rainy weather but that was not going to dampen our spirits. As soon as we disembarked from our ship we were on a bus and heading to the start of the track that would take us over the highest bit of the island and over to the other side over three days.
About to dock at Yakushima - a notoriously rainy island
The lower areas were covered in moss and was some of the most lush forest I'd ever seen

Once we got above the tree line temperatures were around 0 and it was very wet
We made it across the top and after staying in the second of three bushwalking huts descended down the other side to where an old logging rail line has been converted to a walking track.
With three days of walking behind us it was time for Dad to go kayaking whilst the rest of the family went sight seeing
My wife, being Japanese, had found a keen kayaker on Yakushima that ran a small kayak guiding business. He used a local boat that he helped design himself called the Nanok. There was a 4.8 metre version a 5.3 metre and a double. As we were planning to paddle about 20 KM and there was a bit of wind forecast I decided on the 5.3. The boat I hired was in good condition, handled well and was a fast and maneuverable boat. I really enjoyed paddling it.

Besides hiring kayaks and guiding, Takeshi also offers accommodation at his sea side location in this beautiful kit home he built himself.

Accommodation offered as well
As the weather was still less than ideal we simply decided to get in the van and go over to the lee side of the island - always an option when you live on a small island!]

About to launch
calm seas and a spectacular backdrop
We headed north and soon spotted the first of five rather large sea turtles. We also saw a shark, which was following Takashi, lots of barracuda, cormorants and some flying fish. The water was warm, and the wind was almost non existent.

enjoying lunch
I was shown an excellent sea cave that could be paddled all the way through.
some coves led to small harbours and rivers
When we got home a local fisherman dropped a few flying fish over to Takashi. Here is his wife showing one off. I've often seen flying fish off our Australian coast but never got up close or seen them in a shop. In Yakushima they're a delicacy.
Yakushima is a kayaking and bushwalking paradise. It would be a bit hard organising things and getting around without being able to speak Japanese but there were a few foreigners about who seemed to be managing all right. The main tracks are well marked and the bushwalking huts are basic but well maintained and weatherproof. There's lots of deer and monkeys, one of which attacked us, as well as some rich birdlife. Yakushima also has quite a few frogs and salamander species but I couldn't find any of those on this trip although I did find a salamander a few years back in Hokkaido. Like all good holidays, I wish it could have lasted longer.

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Glebe to Currarong

The NSWSKC held it's annual Rock N Roll kayak fest at Currarong, just north of Jervis Bay. The weather looked good so my paddling friend Megan and I decided we'd paddle there. I trollied my kayak and a weeks worth of food and camping gear down to Rozelle Bay where I packed the boat and launched. An hour and a half later I was rounding South Head and heading out to sea in a surprisingly strong Noreasterly - this was a great start! I hoisted the sail and headed out to sea to make the most of the wind. Three hours later I was at Jibbon Beach where Megan and I had arranged to meet.

Not too long after I'd landed Megan arrived having paddled the eight kilometres from her place up in Port Hacking. We headed out into a strengthening wind and made short work of the 11 kilometres to our next stop at Wottomolla.

Megan Pryke let it rip the first time she used the sail
The next day was going to be a cracker with North Easterly winds to about 15 knots forecast to blow all day. We headed out and soon had the sails up. The GPS was recording us moving at an average of almost 10km p/hr. Once we got past The Royal the wind began to weaken. It became harder to catch the diminishing runners. I don't mind paddling in calm conditions or even opposing winds but when the forecast was so good I have to admit to being less then happy about the lack of wind and then downright grumpy when it turned southerly!

We were a couple of kilometres off shore when the Southerly really picked up so we headed in to Wollongong for shelter. We had some lunch, checked the forecast which still maintained we were supposed to be getting Noreasters and then headed out again, albeit in a calmer sea but with no help from behind. It seemed a long time getting past Port Kembla and that bleak industrial skyline and by the time we'd rounded Red Point we were ready to land. We went in to the northern tip of Port Kembla Beach which was a less than ideal camp site but after a 53 km day that was going to have to do.

Port Kembla Beach
53 KM
The third day of our trip was again calm but we were in good spirits and enjoying the paddling. We made a quick stop in Bushrangers Cove at Bass Point and then had lunch at Kiama Harbour. After around  38 kilometres we discussed our options. With a strong Southerly forecast for the next day we'd either have to finish the trip and do another 25 km on top of what we'd already done or risk having to abandon our plan and get someone to pick us up at Geroa. We decided to pass the Geroa rest stop and go for it, hopefully with some help from an as yet non existant Noreaster. The wind did come up and we sailed while paddling hard all the way to Currarong.

63 KM
We pulled in about 5:40 feeling good and glad to have made it. We commented on the fact that whenever we do the big days its usually with all the extra weight that camping gear, food and water adds and that it can take a while to adjust and makes the k's a lot harder than the numbers would suggest.

Friday we went for a bushwalk around Beecroft Head and on Saturday I took a strong group out into a solid southerly for a partial circumnavigation of Beecroft Peninsular.

Honeymoon Bay to Currarong is about 27 km
The Beecroft team was Mark Hempel, Mark Schroeder, Mark Dabbs, David Linco, Wade Carberry, Paul Edwards and Joel Murray. We were all well pumped as we rounded Gumgetters so I probably came accross as a bit hyper as Wade and I barged into a rescue situation and took over - apologies to anyone who felt we should have stayed out of it - blame it on my training!

The wind had returned to Noreasterly by Sunday so I took another group back to Honeymoon Bay where we explored all the fantastic caves and slots between Target Beach and Point Perpendicular.

Awsome natural features - some of us went in here and then came out of the other tunnel on the left
Inside a sea cave
Sylvio gets through!

Although I felt pretty good about paddling from Sydney to Currarong one thing put all those kilometres into perspective. Jason Beachcroft who last year paddled the entire way around Australia, including Tasmania did more than our entire trip in one stint three times on his trip when he had to paddle past the unlandable Baxter and Zuytdorp Cliffs in Western Australia and The Bunda Cliffs in South Australia. Jason gave a talk on his trip on Saturday night which I'm sure all sea kayakers would find truly inspirational. Congratulations Jason.

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

A great video about one of our ocean brethren

A day out with The South Coast Legends

Three of us Sydney paddlers were honored to be invited to The Pancake Paddle down at Mystery Bay on the South Coast. We had the pleasure of paddling with some legends of kayaking. I hope I can still paddle as strongly as some of these folks when I'm their age.

Looking North from The Mystery Bay camp ground

John Wilde & Mike Snoad brief the group
Laurie Geoghegan - Builder of the famous NADGEE range of kayaks


Peter & Dirk


John Wilde

Paul Loker - Still can't help getting into caves

Friday, August 22, 2014

North Queensland (Capricorn Coast) Trip

A plan was hatched by Rob Mercer & Garry Forrest to paddle from Yepoon to Mackay via a number of islands. Unfortunatley we timed our trip to coincide with some strong winds, which normally would have been fine, but they were always going to be either in our face or on our beam at best.
Rob, Matt, Garry
A windy day didn't put us off and we launched from Yeppoon into a rough sea. Any ideas I had about worry free paddling in warm waters without much swell were quickly put to rest as we battled waves up to four metres, strong winds and fast currents. I'd be lieing if I said I wasn't rattled in some places.

First landing at Five Rocks

Camped up against cliffs that had us worried about high tide at 11 that night. The water came within half a metre of our tents

The next day dawned with a 30 knot easterley and thunderstorms so we stayed at Five Rocks for another night

The next day was still rough on the water as we headed North

We got the sails up for the last couple of k's into Freshwater once we rounded the extremely bouncy waters off Manifold Island. Strong winds, big tidal flows and shallow waters created conditions I'd never encountered before.
A welcome shelter from the rain. Once we chooed off a small snake and swept away a few spiders we settled in quite nicley only to be woken up by a feral pig!
Although the weather situation was improving it still wouldn't be ideal and we'd run out of time if we kept pushing for Mackay. We decided to head south again and spend a few days at the Keppel Islands. It was going to be a big day but because of the tides it wouldn't have helped us leaving early so we had a big breakfast and hit the water at about 11.30. With tides still hindering us we found it hard to get our speed above 6 km/h and later realised it would be around 9PM by the time we made it to Keppel. As we approached Five Rocks it was decided we'd go in and spend a third night there. With the wind now well developed and swung around to the North East this beach had quite a bit of surf and we had to be careful getting in. I came in on a broach feeling well pumped after another solid day of anxious paddling.

Finally, clearing skies
A clear morning, it was finally starting to feel like Queensland!
Heading to The Keppel Islands
Rob & Garry had just spent a week at the Keppels for The Keppel Islands Sea Kayak Symposium and as Garry had been there many times before he decided to finish off back at Yeppoon so Rob and I headed out. We landed at Conical Island where I set up camp as Rob continued over to North Keppel to see if he could find Sharon, Alan and Anne who had been island hopping around The Keppels, mostly staying on Humpy enjoying a campsite that I gathered was marginally more comfortable than Five Rocks!

Paradise at last - Conical Island
The next day I paddled over to North Keppel and the five of us did a circumnavigation of the beautiful North Keppel Island
After another night in solitary on Conical I went back to meet the others and had a quick look around the island

We later paddled back to Yeppoon - into a headwind of course!

 A fantastic trip that I'm grateful to have been invited on.

At the time Rob encouraged us to push North into a wild sea to head for Freshwater I (and I suspect Garry) weren't entirley enthusiastic because not only would it be big conditions but we knew by this time that we wouldn't be continuing North and would need to retrace our steps the next day and add 20km to what would already be a long day to the Keppels. Rob pushed us a bit and so it was that we found ourselves punching out through the surf into it (a surf capable of surfing Rob backwards so that he had to roll). This push by Rob was what made the whole trip so much more wholesome, both from the engaging paddling, another excellent location and the fact that when Rob and I did finally get to The Keppels it was all so much more gratifying. I felt I'd earned it and was really able to relax on that great little piece of paradise on Conical Island and thoroughly enjoy the last couple of days of the trip as a result.

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

A Video I filmed together with Fernando at The Tollgate Islands off Batemans Bay. Video by Fernando.

Fernando has really shaken things up with his fearless attitude and rapid aqusition of skills. I just hope he makes it to old age!

Sunday, February 23, 2014

Cockle Creek to Bathurst Harbour Return. A South Tasmania Classic.

Stuart Trueman took a gamble and posted a proper expedition to the NSWSKC trips calendar. The trip was to follow the coast along the bottom of Tasmania from Cockle Creek on the East Coast to Bathurst Harbour on the West Coast and back. Fortunately for me I was on the list of starters.

Adrian, Michael, Campbell, Matt, John, Wade, Fernando, Stuart
Eight of us ended up on the beach at Cockle Creek with a less than ideal weather forecast. Any plans we had for a start on the day of our arrival were scuttled by strong winds. We set up our tents ahead of a storm and settled in for a rainy night at Cockle Creek.

The next morning we were off, pleasantly sailing out of Cockle Creek on a nice South Westerly, a wind that would turn from friend to foe before too long. Things started roughening up after Whale Head and by the time we approached South East Cape we had a serious head wind and rough sea to deal with. The group fragmented as I suspect we entered self preservation mode and it wasn’t too long before Stuart made his first leadership call and sounded a retreat. We turned and ducked back in to a rocky bay for cover. Although strewn with boulders, the bay was well protected and we landed, helping each other carry the heavy boats up the rocks.

Carrying the boats up onto boulders to regroup after our first attempt at rounding South Cape

Stuart wondering what he'd got himself into
We had lunch and set off again hoping things had calmed down. As we hit SE Cape it was clear they hadn’t. Estimates of wind strength varied from 25 to 30 knots. My own reliable wind gauge told me it was over 30, my hat blew off! We all put our heads down and resolved to just grind it out to South East Cape and beyond to our days destination at South Cape Rivulet. After slogging into the wind for another ten kilometres after the Cape all we needed to do was negotiate a single dumping surf break and day one would be behind us. The waves were surprisingly frequent and my own timing was not quite right as I was only just in front of a rather large breaker that just missed me, breaking behind me and side surfing me to shore. Everyone got in all right in the end even though that meant a swim for one of us!

Although the forecast was improving the previous day had taken its toll. Michael had struggled to keep up, his skeg boat simply not as efficient at dealing with the rough conditions as everyone else who had rudders. Wade had developed rather large swelling in his right wrist and Fernando had a relapse of a bad wrist he’d developed during our training paddles over the previous few weeks. Stuart announced that Michael had made a decision to turn back and make other paddling arrangements. I think everyone was surprised as he’d got through the previous day and I don’t think anyone was expecting it to get worse than that. In the interest of the group goal of making it to Bathurst Harbour, Stuart and Michael launched early and headed off back around the Cape. The rest of us launched and headed for Little Deadmans Bay.

Heading out of South Cape Rivulet - The weather was getting better
Not long before dusk, I spotted Stuart approaching. He’d gone back to Whale Head, turned around and bypassed Cape Rivulet to make it to Deadmans in one hit, the rest of us had taken two days and three stops to make the same distance. We were quietly in awe.

Adrian Clayton
Today we were set to bag a big one – Maatsuyker Island. As we were just about to head off Fernando raised the fact that thunderstorms had been forecast and he didn’t think an open crossing was a good idea. Stuart agreed and we decided to head to Ketchem instead. There was little said, but some of us were disappointed.
With only slight head winds and falling swell we paddled along taking it all in. I felt like I was inside a picture.

John goes over the days route with the group at our lunch stop at Louisa Bay
After lunch it was on to Ketchem Bay. The next day was going to be a long one so we all cooked up big meals and had an early night.

Ketchem Bay

And a big one it was, 42 km into a head wind and current. Thankfully the swell was low and we were able to sneak into McKays Gulch to land and have a break. We were all relieved to finally make it to Spain Bay where an early night was again the order of the day.

McKays Gulch
The next morning was a slow one for me. John, always the early riser was keen to get going, take in the Breakseas and head to Claytons Corner about 20 km along the Bathurst Channel. Adrian and Campbell were rushing about packing but Fernando & Wade were going to take a couple of days off to rest and recuperate.  For a good ten minutes I struggled to make a decision. As the last of the group headed off I packed my tent. Although my body would have loved to have simply gone back to bed my senses got the better of me and I was soon in my eternally wet gear and paddling out of Spain Bay on route to Claytons Corner. I met up with the rest of the group a few kilometres later and we headed up the Channel. I had a great sense of achievement paddling into the harbour as it was in Bathurst Harbour that I’d first experienced sea kayaking. In the summer of 2000/2001 my then girlfriend (now wife) and I had walked the South Coast Track from Cockle Creek to Melaleuca. After the seven day walk we’d arranged to rent a sea bear double off the then owners of Roaring Forties Sea Kayaking tours. Although it took a lot of persuading there was a double waiting for us to take out on a self supported trip. We spent another seven days exploring Bathurst Harbour and Port Davey in the double. Although I was hooked it wasn’t until 2004 that I finally bought a sea kayak of my own and began my sea kayaking journey. To be paddling back past the same spots I remembered vividly, and to have paddled in from Cockle Creek rather than flew or charter boated in as most kayakers do, gave me a great sense of satisfaction. I’d come full circle.

At Claytons Corner is a well maintained hut which we quickly made home. The sun was out and we dried gear and settled in to a very comfortable night, John and I opting to stay in our tents due to a sign about the resident quoll who we thought might not be conducive to a good night’s sleep. In the late afternoon we had a visit from a group of Tasmanian kayakers who had chartered a boat in. A discussion was had about the injuries sustained by Wade and Fernando and an offer was made to take our two injured kayakers back on the charter boat which had plenty of room for a couple more paddlers and kayaks.

In the morning Stuart headed back to Spain Bay to let Wade and Fernando know they had an option to get out. The rest of us paddled into Melaleuca, where I again reminisced on my previous trip. We chatted to some bushwalkers, some volunteer rangers and a yachty and then went to see the Orange Bellied Parrots
Orange Bellied Parrots (True!)
I’m pleased to report that we saw quite a few feeding and flying around. We headed back to Claytons where Adrian, Campbell and I climbed to the top of Mount Beattie in the afternoon. Adrian, ever the machine, had no problem getting up and back, even though the guy has two titanium knees!

Everyone helped carry the heavy boats - because everyone needed help to carry their own
That night Stuart returned with Wade who had decided it best to get out as he would have  seriously exacerbated his injury if he paddled back. We had another peaceful night at Claytons and the next morning all went separate ways. Wade settled into the hut, Stuart headed off to Melaleuca, John went to climb Mt Rugby and Adrian, Campbell and I headed back slowly, making detours to visit the other kayakers camp, explore little bays and generally take in as much of this spectacular place as we could.
Having a drink
As we went past the spot where we’d seen a slight footpad up to Mt Rugby we spotted Johns boat. He’d obviously decided to go up and so would I. I headed up what soon turned out to be a hell of a bushwalk. After about ninety minutes of huffing and puffing I came across John on his way down. We had a brief chat and continued in our opposite directions.
John Wilde

The view from on top of Mt Rugby 773 Metres
Flashback - a photo from my first kayak trip back in 2001 at Bathurst Harbour
The bush is absolutley beautiful in SW Tasmania
After finally getting back to my boat some three hours later I cooked up a meal and took in a glorious afternoon, complete with sun shine and the spectacular back drop of the mountain I’d just climbed .  As soon as I left the little bay however, I was soon battling a solid headwind and had to put my head down for the paddle back out of Bathurst Harbour and around to Spain Bay.

Another early night was had by all as we knew what we were in for the next day. On the way back we followed Stuart & John to Wender Island where it was rumoured there is a tunnel all the way through. John found it and went straight through with Fernando close by and then Adrian. Stuart yelled out “this is not mandatory” as he too disappeared into the jaws of this nasty and narrow looking slot. I went ahead of Campbell and as I got to the narrowest part at the end struggled to paddle against the back pull as a wave built up behind. Giant bull kelp cushioned the boat from the rocks but made it hard to paddle. Just as I negotiated the final little reef Campbell got plonked on a ledge above me. We managed to get out on the next surge and blasted into a frenzy of excited seals, one of which bumped right into Johns boat as another one leapt clean over the back of Fernando’s. There were good numbers in the water and all over the island itself. I could even see some right up on the highest peak.
Campbell approaching the gauntlet, a narrow tunnel right through the island

Coming out the other side - phew!
After the adrenalin wore off we settled into our steady slog mode for the trip south towards South West Cape. A fishing boat came by, with Wade and the other kayakers on board. They headed way off to the west, probably to avoid the rebound and left us once again to our isolation and mediative long distance strokes. This was the most tiring leg of the trip for me, probably because of the Mt Rugby Climb and paddle the previous day. After our stop inside McKays Gulch and a good top up of my left over breakfast (porridge semolina mix) I had a new found energy and was again enjoying the paddling. I should have cottoned on that something was being planned when Adrian and Campbell cagged up at the Gulch. 

Rounding South West Cape
When we were just off South West Cape Adrian announced that it was rolling time. Apparently rolling off South West Cape is a prerequisite for the Maatsuyker Kayak Club and so it was that Adrian, Campbell and myself partook in this ritual. The cold water dunk did wonders for my speed and Campbell and I made short work of the remaining run into Ketchem Bay.

The plan was to head out to Maatsuyker Island in a good North Westerly, and then tac across to South Cape Rivulet the following day but Stuart announced the forecast had changed overnight and a major change was on its way. We needed to get out, fast. With slight winds behind us and a calm sea we did a 61 km day and paddled all the way back to South Cape Rivulet. The next day we were up at 4 AM and paddling out through the breakers before dawn. We’d been very lucky so far but with the forecast of a 30 to 40 knot Southerly along with four to five metre seas it was decided we’d be fools to push our luck any farther and so it was that we high tailed it back to Cockle Creek early.

On a wet beach we were greeted by Gillian Wilde, Johns Wife. Her cheery smile couldn’t hide the sling her arm was in or her black eye. Gillian had had quite an ordeal and had ended up getting helicoptered to hospital after taking a fall off some rocks and dislocating her shoulder. The fact that she was back at Cockle Creek, camping, and waiting for John, speaks volumes for the character of this true outdoorswoman. I hope Gillian makes a speedy recovery and gets back on the track again soon.

It was a real privilege to paddle in such a special and pristine area with such a great team. Adrian was an inspiration, approaching sixty nine and not one issue or complaint. Campbell got stronger by the day and was the fastest paddler overall. Fernando and Wade did well in dealing with injuries and I’m sure both those guys who haven’t really done big expeditions before will have learned a great deal from the trip. Michael made a difficult decision early on but went on to have a solid solo trip up the inside of Bruny Island and take in a few good bushwalks. John Wilde is a very experienced and highly qualified paddler and was a great asset to the group. I felt like a rank junior alongside John. I would like to personally thank Stuart Trueman for putting the trip together and for putting out so much for those who needed (or thought they needed) help. It was an honour to do this iconic trip with Stuart and I got an immense amount out of it. There is one good thing about the fact we didn’t get out to Maatsuyker, I’ll have to go down there again!